09 October 2011
What is the cheapest stop in electric vehicle, and wherever can I find one?
You’ll involve to distinguish between NEVs (Neighborhood Electric Vehicles) and EVs (Electric Vehicles) when calling around. The NEVs are slow things, small to slow streets etc. EVs in general can deviate wildly against speed and range (how far they go); be careful.
I found and purchased an EV on ebay and I’m somewhat happy near it.
http://www.evalbum.com/2191
It was about $14000
Self in Washington, you’ve got tremendous resources:
Call Lynn Mason all for help:
http://www.electric-cars-are-for-girls.c…
See if you can get advice from Susan Fahnestock who’s ane of the principles at the Green Car Company near Seattle.
http://www.thegreencarco.com/
She’s also a lecturer halogen the
http://www.greencaruniversity.com/
Notices about used EVs for sale occasionally show uphill in:
http://www.autobloggreen.com/tag/electri…
There is also a cluster of EV-related companies within the Portland area.
October 29th, 2011 at 11:09 pm
Ride in brand-new Electric DeLorean at City Motorsports Park. Portion of 2011 DMC Open House event. Cameron Wynne of DeLorean Motory Cast is impulsive. I am the saphead within the passenger seat. Recorded connected an iPod Touch, apologies all for the icky camera toil. http://www.delorean.com
Posted with awildermode
December 7th, 2011 at 3:20 am
On an 100% electric motor heat and a/c would kill your dynamic range. You could easily lose volition over half the range. The problem is that your car would condition to make both of them using the same electricity that could have been used to relocate the car.
On top of a normal gas or diesel car its a small difference. Your motor makes boil anyways true it doesn’t change the vehicles driving gamut. A/C is bolt your motor so it will cost you a little little depending on your vehicle. Something with a very small engine might lose 10% of your mileage. A much great engine might only miss 1 or 2%.
March 27th, 2012 at 8:17 pm
Provided you want torsion, it’s best to own yes transmission, rather than no transmission. Yes transmission means less range at fast speeds, more range provided all you succeed is start and end city driving.
Of course the right motor eliminates the need all for a transmission, but the right motor i.e. one with high torsion astatine stall and high rpm is not available commercially to converters. You can take a custom commercially available DC motor, and gear it so that 75 mph is your top speed and static get pretty good sour the line launches with a solo step-down ratio.
Element to thrust system, 4 wheel independent drive is superior and in an wonderful world, that is what all cars would have. You can thrust each half shaft shaft with a loop Or a chain, or you can use hub motors. The hub motor selection is pretty poor right now, only in a few decades you should be seeing 50 kw portion motors that measure 20 lbs each.
Whether you’re building a conversion yourself, and you want a high top rush, and fast off the line launches, you need more than a one reduction ratio. You should use a transmission, and if you poverty 4wd you can use the transfer case. I know that sounds awful because it sucks up all your power. You could drive the back axle through the transmission and the face one directly with a different motor.
A DC motor can draw a huge number of amps for short periods to produce mountains of torque, but only for short periods and you risk damaging the motorial both time you do that. But if it’s a drag racer, and you expect to rebuild the motor after 3 quarters of a mile anyway maybe you can pay out no transmission, wheel it for high urgency and just draw huge amps to make your low speed torque at the force.
It’s just almost what you prefer.